Cosmetics toward peptide-based cosmeceutics

ANNA MARIA PAPINI
Member of Chimica Oggi / Chemistry Today’s Scientific advisory board

In recent years, research in cosmetics has developedactive molecules as protective, hydrating, and antiradicalsagents, favouring cell regeneration to maintainskin wellness. Up to now peptides are among the mostactive but unfortunately less studied active ingredients ofcosmetics.
Peptides as mini-proteins are able to represent thebiologically active part which could be used as ingredientinvolved in skin processes. This is possible if the entire proteinbiological activity, and/or its functional tridimensionalstructure limiting possible toxic side-effects is maintaineddue to the presence of specific amino acids. Proteinscommunicate by peptides and also by those organicmolecules present on the side chains of amino acids,the so called co- or post-translational modifications suchas sugars, lipids etc. It is evident that in this context thesynthesis, purification and characterisation of modifiedamino acids, peptides, and semi-synthetic mini-proteins byinnovative methodologies will give a fundamental contribution to peptide-based cosmetics. ...