CAROLINE MABILLE, SANDRA CATARINO
Solvay Novecare
40 rue de la Haie Coq, 93 306 Aubervilliers, France

Abstract

Shampoo formulators have recently been pushed by consumers to design more environmentally-friendly and cost-efficient products. To do so, some options are being explored such as a reduced use or the absence of some ingredients (silicone, sulfates…) and the design of diluted chassis with a low inclusion of surfactants. These innovative formulations may lead to a poorer conditioning performance. Solvay is describing surfactant and polymer solutions that both deliver expected performance from clear, diluted, cost-efficient chassis and have a reduced impact on the environment.

INTRODUCTION

Good-looking hair is important for many women and hair conditioning is key when choosing a shampoo. Price can also be a top criterion in the current economic context. On top of performance and cost, formulators face the challenge of making more sustainable products. For instance, shampoos claiming low silicone or silicone-free rose by 10% in the past 5 years. Sulfates and other surfactants reduction is also in the scope to improve the shampoos sustainability profiles, to drive cost down and reduce irritancy. Nevertheless, delivering cleansing and caring from these diluted chassis will imply innovative ways of formulating (new rheology systems, high performance conditioning polymers, smart combinations of surfactants).

MATERIALS AND METHODS
Except otherwise specified, all the shampoos considered in the study incorporate in active from 7 to 14% of a primary surfactant (Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate or combinations thereof), 2 to 4% of a secondary surfactant (Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Coco Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside or ...