“Sensory” cosmetics:formulation strategies and evaluations in use

corresponding

ANNALISA TORTINI

Cosmoproject S.r.l.
Via Mazzabue 5, 43055 Casale di Mezzani, Parma, Italy

Abstract

One of the challenges issued by the market to the formulators is to create cosmetics capable of awing at once, synergistically acting on all senses. When the skill of tickling sight, touch, smell and even hearing has a significant impact on the perceived quality and the sensory “memory” of the consumer, then the cosmetic is a winning product. Both the substance and the effect created at once are among the very first key elements to confirm the success of the product, which expresses itself in a “sensory experience” during its application phase. From a technical point of view, formulators can act on virtually endless variables in order to obtain the desired effect: oil blends, gelling agents, texturing agents, fragrances and moisteners skillfully balanced turn into the perfect product from the sensory standpoint. Selecting optically active elements in the formulations is paramount: those elements are able to visibly change the treated area in a wonderful way, thus satisfying the consumer at once. A challenge inside the challenge is to scientifically “evaluate” impressions which are personal by nature to create the knowledge of this type of analysis in the research laboratories. Spreading value as well as picking can be easily measured by means of the consistometer. Blind evaluations of textures with reference to the benchmarks must be included in a multidimensional matrix which will become an essential part of product technical sheet.


 

FOREWORD

The sensory stimulation of a cosmetic has been deemed to be an ancillary aspect until a few years ago, something that would complete the product - exclusively reserved to high-end products. The functional properties of the cosmetic turned out to be one of the most interesting aspects, as well as the promises – which could be more or less kept, and were actually kept – made by the product to the consumer. From its formulation to its communication, the cosmetic used to live according to its own functionality, that is its ability to solve or prevent specific blemishes.


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