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Using NaDES extraction to create natural, sustainable, high-performance actives

corresponding

VIRGINIE CHARTON1*, AMELIE CLAIRET2
*Corresponding author
1. GATTEFOSSÉ Research & Development Centre, Saint-Priest Cedex, France
2. GATTEFOSSÉ Marketing & Innovation department, Saint-Priest Cedex, France

Abstract

Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents (NaDES) are directly inspired by the way in which metabolites are solubilized in plant cells. Natural, non-toxic and efficient at low temperatures, they allow the creation of high-performance active compositions, unattainable with conventional solvents. These sustainable ingredients are obtained using all-natural components such as carbohydrates, organic acids, amino acids, … Some NaDES make it possible to discover and extract new activity from plants. Recent products launched on the market take advantage of these natural new solvents to bring improvement to cosmetic formulations.


INTRODUCTION

Despite the biosynthesis, storage and transportation in plant tissues, many secondary metabolites are poorly soluble in water or lipids. Recently, a new category of solvents for plant extraction application has been discovered, directly inspired by the way in which metabolites are solubilized in plant cells. In 2010 Choi and Verpoorte’s team employed the knowledge about plants metabolomic for the new solvents development (1), named Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents (NaDES), inspired from ionic liquids and deep eutectic solvents first studied by Abbott at the beginning of the 21st century (2). Choi and Verpoorte’s hypothesis is that solubilization of secondary metabolites in plants is in fact carried out through natural eutectic combinations of simple chemicals such as sugars, alcohol sugars, polyols, nitrogen compounds or organic acids (3-5).

The aim of this study is to highlight the design and the extraction efficiency of six new NaDES especially developed for cosmetic applications. Polyphenolic composition and antioxidative activity of NaDES extracts are compared with those of conventional solvent extracts obtained for two well k ...