HPC6_2019

50 H & PC Today - Household and Personal Care Today - vol. 14(6) November/December 2019 INNOVATIVE TRENDS FOR HAIR CARE INSPIRED BY FOOD AND NUTRACEUTICALS may assist aiding the shift to a normal inhabited scalp. Further basic research for validation and an appropriate product development path is required. Its common denominator is the attempt to bring the scalp skin back to a healthy homeostasis. Treating the scalp with biota toxic compounds, while may be helpful temporarily, but it is not fostering the creation of healthy environment that will restore a healthy scalp (3). Examples of Innovative Treatments More brands are entering the market with products which claim: (1) to work in concert with the scalp microbiome; (2) maintain the microbiome’s health; (3) re-balance the microbiome, returning it to a healthy state; and a combination of all 3. For example, the innovative treatment for dry scalp utilizes a vitamin B 3 - based microbiome balancing complex with clinically proven actives that support the beneficial microorganisms on the scalp by rebalancing its natural ecosystem. Patented complex of prebiotics, probiotics, and lactic acid is based on the latest research in microbiology. It is formulated at optimal pH 4.5 and includes: fermented rice water containing 8 amino acids important for hair growth, synthesis of protein and keratin, and also fights the fungi causing dandruff; B complex vitamins for strong hair; vitamin C to stimulate sebum production, which keeps the scalp moisturized; vitamin E which prevents hair loss and is beneficial for the appearance of hair; inositol, a carbohydrate that can both remedy and prevent damage to hair, by increasing elasticity and reducing surface friction. In addition, bacteria and yeast will use the rice starch as a prebiotic, digest it and produce a cocktail of nutrients for the hair and scalp. The independent study conducted on over 22 people indicate that 91% found their scalp less irritated; 86% found their hair shiny and bright (1). Conclusion The key to healthy hair is the healthy scalp, and treating it like the rest of the body with a regimen is the first step in reducing damage and fostering hair growth. Strong interest in scalp care among key haircare demographics such as women and young consumers highlights an opportunity to disrupt the traditional hair care routine with innovative products, including ones inspired by food and nutraceuticals trends. References 1. Mintel.com 2. Dueva-Koganov, O.V., et al., US 9,913,797; 2018. Bioactive compositions having hair anti-aging activity 3. Nava Dayan, The Scalp Microbiome: A review of recent findings and innovative approaches for treating scalp disorders https:// www.happi.com/contents/view_features/2016-04-01/the-scalp- microbiome/live-from-shows “Beauty-from-within” trend inspires novel hair care products According to Mintel report “Vitamins, Minerals & Supplements – US, September 2017”, 44% of adults have taken an appearance enhancing nutraceutical supplements, with the number growing to 47% among women and to 60% among consumers aged 18-34 (1); and apparently this “beauty-from- within” trend is inspiring the development of novel hair care products. Vitamins/Antioxidants/Minerals Ingredients that are essential for scalp and hair health include B complex vitamins, e.g. biotin, B 5 (pantothenic acid), B 3 (niacinamide), B 6 (pyridoxine), B 12 (cyanocobalamin); antioxidants, e.g. ascorbic acid, tocopherol, alpha-linoleic acid, selenium; minerals, e.g. zinc, calcium; proteins and amino acids. They are present in food and hair care nutraceuticals, and often included in leave-on/ wash-off products (1). Bioactive compositions of serum fractions obtained from the plants used in food: tea + feverfew; and parsley + kelp demonstrated hair anti-ageing and antioxidant activities (2). Probiotics’ health reach extended to hair care “Total Well-being” trend suggests that consumers appreciate probiotics’ health value, treat their bodies like an ecosystem, and seek solutions that complement their evolving personal care needs. The scalp’s microbiome is an ecosystem made up of many different types of microorganisms; it plays an important role in the regulation of sebum, and when unbalanced it can lead to itchiness, dandruff and even hair loss. The microbiome of scalp is impacted by the environment, life style and seasonal hazards. The probiotics’ use in skin/scalp care are appealing to beauty consumers, and young men in particular, with almost 90% of US males aged 18-34 saying they use, or are interested in using, probiotic-enriched products derived from natural/organic food sources. The majority of products with Lactobacillus do not contain the living bacteria itself, but byproducts of the fermentation process, which are generated by incubating the microorganism with fruits and vegetables, producing a nutritious combination of amino acids, antioxidants, peptides, and lactic acid to moisturize, nourish and protect the scalp (1). Considerations for improvement of scalp health Addressing pH mantle is important because scalp’s biota may require different acidity conditions than skin; and optimizing the pH may foster growth of healthier biota population. Enrichment of the scalp skin surface with prebiotics, compounds that nourish the biota of interest. For example, if specific nutrition for Propionibacterium acnes is provided, it Olga Dueva-Koganov Vice President, Intellebio LLC Panel Discussion on HAIR CARE

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