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- 05/11/2020

SILAB – AGREYNIST®, foil the natural processes of hair greying

H&PC Today

AGREYNIST® is an anti-free radical and pro-pigmenting active ingredient of plant origin, enabling greying hair to return to its natural color without the need of dyeing it.



Greying of hair is an unavoidable phenomenon, however, there is a strong consumer expectation to avoid it with natural solutions. Faced with this observation, SILAB developed AGREYNIST®, a natural active ingredient capable of regulating the biological pathways leading to greying, in particular:
– it restores the oxidative balance of hair, a necessary factor of any anti-greying strategy, not only by reducing the formation
of free radicals, but also by activating cell detoxification induced by autophagy;
– it favors repigmentation of the hair fiber by stimulating the synthesis of melanin with its cytoprotective effect;
– it re-establishes the structural quality of hair (result from an original modeling study*).


* Using Raman microspectroscopy, SILAB conducted a more detailed analysis of the course of greying and, in a novel way, has shown that there are changes in molecular markers related to biomechanical properties (conformation of proteins) and to the barrier function (organization of lipids) in grey hair.



The repigmenting effect of AGREYNIST® was demonstrated on Caucasian and Asian, male and female volunteers. Indeed, a visual scoring by experts on photos highlighted that after 4 months of daily application, AGREYNIST® formulated at 2.5% in a lotion significantly decreases the stage of greying by 20% (P < 0.001) on Caucasian volunteers, corresponding to an average decrease of one stage of greying (result visible in 91% of volunteers). A subjective evaluation confirmed these data, as after 6 months of use, 91% of the volunteers reported that they have fewer grey hairs and 88% of them considered that it is an anti-grey hair product.



In order to address effectively the issue of hair greying, SILAB implemented a screening of natural raw materials targeting the indispensable anti-free radical and pro-pigmenting effects. This work led to the identification of two raw materials: black oat seeds (anti-oxidant and detoxifying) and spiny restharrow roots (pro-pigmenting). The use of green solvents combined with enzymatic bioengineering enabled the optimized extraction of molecules of interest. SILAB thus concentrated and stabilized in AGREYNIST® the complementary efficacies of these two raw materials obtained from a controlled supply chain. With its protective, detoxifying and repigmenting action, AGREYNIST® (INCI name: Butylene Glycol & Water & Ononis spinosa Root Extract & Avena strigosa Seed Extract) offers a natural solution for grey hair care. Composed of biopeptides and polyphenols, this patented active is available in aqueous solution (recommended amount: 0.5 to 2.5%) and compliant with international cosmetic regulations (Europe, United States, Japan, China, etc.).

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