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- 02/24/2016

DSM at in-cosmetics Paris 2016

HPC Today

DSM Personal Care will be attending the 2016 in-cosmetics Europe trade show in Paris on 12-14 April and presenting its latest innovations in personal care on Stand J70. Visitors are invited to review our latest product launches in the Innovation Zone. DSM experts will shine a spotlight on the latest research in the fields of Skin and Sun Care formulations in the Formulation Lab on Wednesday 13 April from 14:00 to 15:00.

SYN-UP™ – Boost the skin’s resilience

Building further on its competence in synthetic peptides, DSM is proud to present its first synthetic peptide derivative in the CORNEOCARE™ range. SYN-UP™ gives skin the power to fight dryness.

While hundreds of market products claim to treat dry skin, they often offer only short-term benefits, creating major consumer frustration over the never-ending problem of dry skin. DSM researchers found that skin resilience – the ability of skin to recover from external stresses such as cold and wind – is essential to ending consumer frustration.

The epidermis has a key function in skin resilience and DSM research has shown that urokinase and plasmin, two serine proteases in the epidermis, play a crucial role in skin resilience. DSM therefore designed SYN-UP™, a unique patented synthetic peptide derivative, to restore the skin’s youthful resilience to dry skin conditions. In extensive in-vitro research, SYN-UP™ was shown to inhibit urokinase activity by up to 97% and plasmin activity by up to 41%. SYN-UP™ demonstrated a perceivable defense against dry skin conditions and unpleasant sensations when applied in vivo. Skin resilience was evaluated in a 29-day study which revealed that even after repeated stress the skin’s surface is smoother and more hydrated with SYN-UP™.

SYN-STAR™ – The global beauty maximizer

DSM continues to lead global peptide research by discovering new cosmetic properties within its peptide innovation platform. SYN-STAR™ – an innovation based on existing patented peptide technology – showed a global anti-ageing and mattifying effect in a study on Caucasian, Asian, and African skin.

The enzyme PLOD3 (procollagen-lysine, 2-oxoglutarate 5-dioxygenase 3) is known to be important for the stability of intermolecular collagen crosslinks. New in-vitro tests confirmed that SYN-STAR™ stimulates PLOD3, increasing collagen stability, specifically in mature skin, by a factor of more than 4. Data from other recent research revealed a positive effect of SYN-STAR™ on sebum flow. In an in-vitro assay SYN-STARTM was shown to inhibit DPP4 (dipeptidyl peptidase-4), a key enzyme involved in sebum flow.

The clinical study was performed on volunteers of three different ethnicities. A product formulated with 4% SYN-STAR™ was tested for 28 days and its efficacy in wrinkle reduction and a mattifying effect confirmed. In a survey of volunteers, 83% of women agreed that they felt more confident and ready for a fabulous day after a treatment with SYN-STAR™ (satisfaction test, average responses from Caucasian, Asian and African participants).

New range of TILAMAR® polymers for a great-looking hairstyle every day

DSM is further expanding into the global synthetic polyquaternium market with the launch of five new conditioning polymers in its TILAMAR® range: Polyquaternium-7 (3 grades), Polyquaternium-6 and Polyquaternium-22.

According to the latest market research (Global Euromonitor: Market Sizes by Category for 2014-2017 in Milllions of US Dollars), growth in the hair conditioners category is projected to be 6% in 2016-2017.  According to Canadean’s 2014 global consumer survey, rather than turning to standard and conventional conditioning products, consumers are now searching for different approaches, leading to interest in alternative conditioners, for example tailored simultaneously to climate and lifestyle needs or products that build on a growing trend of “skinification” of hair care, enhancing and improving rather than simply cleansing.

As one of the leaders in vitamins, actives and UV filters, DSM is building on its vast portfolio, consumer insights and application knowledge to inspire customers with innovative and sensorially appealing hair care formulations. DSM aims to change people’s perspectives by providing new and different inspiration, giving them courage to change their daily hair routine by launching a “Dare to change your hair routine” formulation box, featuring innovative formulations with TILAMAR® conditioning polymers.

VALVANCE™ Touch 250 – instantly chic

In a fast-paced world, consumers expect everything to work quickly and efficiently. And cosmetic products are no exception: 66% of consumers want them to have an immediate effect on the appearance of their skin (DSM survey conducted with 468 consumers).
Cosmetics have to deliver instant effects and strong benefits to consumers while offering pleasant textures and maximized comfort. VALVANCE™ sensory and visual modifiers are our answer to consumers’ demands for immediate visual improvements and optimized feel. Following DSM’s launch of the VALVANCE™ line in 2014, today we are pleased to announce an extension to the range: VALVANCE™ Touch 250, targeting color cosmetic applications.

VALVANCE™ Touch 250 has been tested against benchmarks in a consumer use test and evaluated by objective assessments with statistic evaluation. The  sensory modifier was found to give lipsticks instant smooth gloss and vibrant color while leaving lips feeling softer and less dry. A compact foundation was found to give better, more even cover, and a loose blush gave a soft powdery finish with enhanced evenness of color. The product launch will be supported by demo samples of these products with guide formulations.

AMPHISOL® K – Gold standard in robust emulsification

DSM will be further promoting new research findings on robust emulsification, highlighting DSM’s AMPHISOL® K, an oil-in-water emulsifier capable of delivering outstanding sunscreen stability combined with ease of product development. At the booth and in the Formulation Lab on Wednesday, 13 April from 14:00 to 15:00, DSM will show formulators how to overcome challenges currently posed by high UV filter and pigment loads over a broad viscosity range. Further, it will illustrate the potential for development of a new generation of highly sophisticated sunscreens and day care products which combine a high level of protection with sensorial attributes that promote consumer compliance.

Latest research finding will focus on revealing the mechanism behind outstanding stability of AMPHISOL® K. As well as forming lamellar structures with very densely packed layers of water phase and liquid crystalline lipid phases, AMPHISOL® K proved to form a large number of liquid crystalline vesicular structures. DSM was the first to show the presence of rarely seen micro-domains which are thought to be responsible for stabilizing liquid crystalline vesicles. The scientific identification of these micro-domains in emulsions containing AMPHISOL® K was only possible using cutting edge technology known as freeze-fracture Scanning Electron Microscopy.

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