TONY O’LENICK
Nascent Technologies Corporation, Lawrenceville Ga, USA

Abstract

It is always amazing that cosmetic formulators can put together very sophisticated products that contain many different raw materials. These materials all interact with each other sometimes in unpredictable ways. The interactions
that occurs when combining the raw materials used in the formulation of personal care products is more than the sum of the properties of each of the raw materials. There are a number of complex interactions that occur in the most simple formulation. These interactions can either enhance or detract from the functional attributes of the formulation. Since most of today’s high performance formulations are very complex containing a plethora of ingredients, it is difficult
to predict the effect of interactions of ingredients in those formulations1. This article is intended to show the effect of introducing a polar group hydroxypropyl group into a dimethicone polymer.  This approach can be done with many polymers to allow more stability in formulation and is part of the minimally disruptive formulation concept (2, 3).

COSMETIC INGREDIENT INTERACTIONS

There are many interactions that occur when ingredients are added to a formulation. They can be ionic in nature as in the interaction of anionic and cationic surfactants, they can be related to hydrogen bonding as in water adding of hydration, they can be rheological as in adding polyacrylates and making a salt to thicken. These interactions are often well understood. Cosmetic formulations often contain phases that are insoluble in each other, like mineral oil, water and silicone fluid.

The term oil includes hydrocarbons, triglycerides, esters, fatty alcohols and oil soluble silicones (alkyl dimethicone). Since silicone fluids are insoluble in oil and water, they are siliphilic and are in a class by themselves. Additionally, oils can be classified by the source from which they are derived such as petrochemical or natural; animal or vegetable. Oils can be solid or liquid and unsaturation and branching will increase their liquidity. They are important materials in cosmetic formulation and often are used as vehicles and emollients (4).

One of the most interesting ways ...