Emulsifiers: the hidden active ingredients for innovative textures


RES PHARMA INDUSTRIALE s.r.l., Trezzo s/Adda, Milano, Italy


Beauty and behaviour have a new meaning and a new definition. Traditional textures have left the place to innovative products which focus on engaging cosmetic experiences in which the consumer is directly involved in the beauty routine. Consumers become “actors” with increasingly complex roles and aid in developing innovative textures.
Formulators examine new ingredients and techniques from which design modern cosmetics and textures. The choice of natural ingredients, especially emulsifiers, becomes not only a technical and functional tool, but an ally for creating emotional textures. Sensory, liquid crystals, transforming and vanishing textures are some concepts in which emulsifiers play as marketing drivers to build an effective and modern communication. Sensory emulsifiers become hidden active ingredients.

The current approach to beauty has evolved tremendously over the last decade in particular with regard to customer consciousness, advent of new technologies and the social implications linked to each consumer’s personal choice (1). Consumers have moved from the traditional idea of simply buying a product and being a consumer to wanting to take part and truly understand what is behind the creation of each speciality he or she purchases. The contemporary consumers are increasingly interested in the choices they make; along with the sensory experience, they want to know where the product comes from, what materials it was made from and to do so also use information from the different social-media. How much energy has been used to produce and transport the cosmetic I am using? Can I easily and completely recycle the packaging? Is the formulation eco-compatible? Does it contain ingredients that may be harmful to my health? What does the label of the product I am buying tell me? Can I contribute to someone else’s well-being with my purchase?

The cosmetic industry is therefore moving from a product-based model to an experience-based model in which consumers seek a fully inte ...