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NEWS

 

NEW ANTI-AGING INGREDIENT OFFERS MULTIFUNCTIONAL BENEFITS

The trend towards multifunctional cosmetics relies on the development of innovative materials that can do more with less. PhytoSpherix™ is a completely natural form of glycogen, sourced and produced from plants by a patent pending green process in Canada.  

PhytoSpherix™:

Is a powerful anti-aging ingredient – Increases cellular metabolism and promotes collagen and hyaluronic acid production in skin cells.

Is a superb moisturizer - Tightly holds water for long periods of time and boosts hydration performance when used on its own or in combination with HA (hyaluronic acid).

Is a formulator’s dream – Does not impact the rheology of formulations, is water soluble, non-ionic, and temperature stable 

If you would like to learn more about this innovative, new material, visit Mirexus at In-Cosmetics Global at booth #EE40.

www.mirexus.com

acrumblehulme@mirexus.com

 

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PROVEN EFFICACY IN REDUCING POLLUTANT PERMEATION 

The world today faces the impact of pollution on skin health. More than 80% of the world's population lives in urban areas with air-monitored pollution exceeding the threshold recommended by the World Health Organization (WHO)1. In fact, global air pollution has grown by 8% in 20162 despite the efforts of some regions to decrease this emission, demonstrating that this is a challenge that will not be overcome rapidly. Polluents cause countless a series of demages to the body: it provokes the destriction of skin layers, reduces cells proliferation, cellular differentiaion and favor hyperpigmentation. Considering the scenario of continue growth of pollution and possible demages to the skin cosmetic brands are coming up with solutions just as quickly. Anti-pollution claims were present in 2/3 of all skin products launches in 2016, mostly with antioxidant properties3. Nevertheless, this property controls the damage caused to the skin after contact with the polluting agents. This only mitigates damages of pollution exposure. A solution that could hold the pollutants from reaching the skin would be ideal. To innovate in this direction Chemyunion has evaluated many different possibilities of films, which could hold pollutants out with proven efficacy. This was the path to SkinBlitz which efficacy was compared to a gold standard in film formation delivering more than 70% less pollutant permeation. 

SkinBlitz shows efficacy in the following areas: 

-  DNA fragmentation protection caused by cigarette smoke 

-  Reduction of 55% of HSP70 (environmental stress marker) 

-  Reduction of 37% of IL-6 (inflammatory mediator) 

-  Reduces to the basal condition the hyperpigmentation caused by pollution 

SkinBlitz is more effective than any other products in the market as they do not prove that the pollutants are not reaching the skin in any level. 

SkinBlitz, the supreme anti-pollution defense was developed by Chemyunion, globally recognized for the creation, development and manufacturing of innovative active ingredients, basic and functional excipients, classical and alternative preservatives for health and personal care. Our expertise involves understanding consumers´ desire for beauty and wellness, identifying trends and developing unique products through our capabilities in R&D. That is why our ingredients add value in the most relevant brands worldwide.

www.chemyunion.com

 

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INOLEX ANNOUNCES THE SALE OF LEXOLUBE®

INOLEX is pleased to announce the sale of its industrial lubricants division (the “Lexolube Division”) to Zschimmer & Schwarz.

The transaction follows several years of tremendous global growth for INOLEX and will allow INOLEX to focus on its unique capabilities and strengths in the personal care ingredients market. Proceeds from the transaction will be reinvested to fuel INOLEX’s continued growth. “This transaction represents an important strategic milestone for INOLEX as we focus on providing innovative ingredients for the beauty care and consumer care markets,” said David Plimpton, President and CEO of INOLEX. “We are in the midst of making a transformational reinvestment across our organization as we continue to provide tailored solutions for our clients’ formulation needs.”

Over the past year, INOLEX has expanded its global footprint with a new commercial office and application lab in Guangzhou, China and a new commercial office in São Paulo, Brazil. INOLEX also launched more than a dozen new products including the Sustoleo™ line of palm-free ingredients and the PhytoTrace™ line of traceable extracts from Provence, France. In order to support this growth, INOLEX continues to invest by hiring top industry talent, which includes the recent addition of Art Knox as VP, Head of Global Personal Care Sales. “It has been a pleasure to join the INOLEX team and participate in this exciting phase of the organization’s growth,” said Mr. Knox. “INOLEX has long been known as a provider of innovative technologies, and we are committed to bringing client-focused, high value solutions to personal care formulators globally.” INOLEX will continue to support Lexolube through a transition services arrangement until manufacturing is transferred to Zschimmer & Schwarz.

www.INOLEX.com

 

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COSMETIC ACTIVES FOR HAIR & SKIN SCARE FROM RENEWABLE SOURCES

Present on the market since 1989 and specialized in the production of protein derivatives KELISEMA is always looking for new cosmetic ingredients from renewable sources. 

Two new actives for hair & skin care obtained from sources coming from the Italian agri-food chain are available this year and enrich the wide range of KELISEMA cosmetic ingredients

WIDE RANGE OF PROTEIN HYDROLYSATES & HYDROLYZED EXTRACTS 

Oat – Millet – Fenugreek                      flour hydrolyzed extracts

Rice – Soy – Wheat – Corn - Pea        protein hydrolysates

Milk – Merino Wool                                protein hydrolysates

Nettle – Mallow                                       leaf hydrolyzed extracts

Quinoa – Hemp                                       protein hydrolysates    

                                                                    from agri-food italian chain

Moringa – Sesame                                  protein hydrolysates

Amaranth                                                  flour hydrolyzed extract

Cassia italica                                             leaf hydrolyzed extract

 

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NEXT GENERATION SEQUENCER

The DNA Metabarcoding is an evolution of genetic analyses, following recent innovations of sequencing technologies (Next Generation Sequencing). It is possible to detect even small traces of DNA in a large set of complex substrates. Next generation sequencers now allow to analyze mix of genetic sequences with a short genetic marker (<180 base pairs).

For example, it’s possible to analyze several qualities of vegetable oils in particular virgin oils. The first cold pressing ensures a good conservation of the plant DNA.

Argan oil is well known for its benefits on skin and hair and it is important to check that there is no adulteration.

Thus, DNA Metabarcoding has been used on an argan oil to look for the genetic signature of the plants from which this oil was produced.

The extraction of DNA and its analysis demonstrate the presence of a genetic sequence assigned to the family of Sapotaceae, strictly identical to the genetic sequence of Argania spinosa (the argan tree). Therefore, the raw material can be traced in a processed product. This kind of analysis allows to know the impact of the processes undergone by plants of interest. This method has been proven efficient for processed products made with plants or algae. This is relevant and helpful for the personal care industry’s search of naturality and traceability.

www.dnagensee.com

 

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ACTIVE BEAUTY LAUNCHES PRIMALHYAL™ GOLD, THE FIRST OIL BASE COMPATIBLE HYDRATED HYALURONIC ACID 

Givaudan Active Beauty extends its hyaluronic acid range with the launching of a new active cosmetic ingredient called PrimalHyal™ Gold at Cosmetagora,  in Paris. 

64% of our skin is made of water. This water content is constantly maintained in our skin by means of specific macromolecules, hyaluronic acid (HA) being the major one. 

The skin barrier and its HA content can be negatively affected by age, leading to skin dehydration. This is why the #1 benefit expected by worldwide consumers from a cosmetic product is hydration, with a rising demand for even greater performance and long-lasting properties.  Due to its very high water solubility, it is complex to add HA, even under dry in powder form in oil based formulas such as make-up applications. Active Beauty is now offering PrimalHyal™ Gold: a new technological solution produced by means of sustainable manufacturing processes (biofermentation) which allow to incorporate hydrated HA in oil-based formulas such as pressed powders, body oils, suncare oils, lipstick, lip glosses, mascaras, balms and any anhydrous formulas. 

Having a recognised expertise in HA, the research of Givaudan Active Beauty has bridged the gap between formulation needs for new oil soluble ingredients and active compounds. A specific molecular weight HA (<50 kDa) is incorporated into a micro emulsion to create PrimalHyal™Gold. It increases by +45% the amount of total water in lips and +50% of free water, whereas the placebo totally loses its efficacy after 8 hours.

pauline.martin.pm1@givaudan.com

www.givaudan.com

 

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TARANTULAS INSPIRE NEW STRUCTURAL COLOR WITH THE GREATEST VIEWING ANGLE

Inspired by the hair of blue tarantulas, researchers from The University of Akron lead a team that made a structural-colored material that shows consistent color from all viewing directions. This finding overturns the conventional wisdom that long-range order photonic structures are always iridescent, opening new potential to mass produce structural colors because highly ordered designs are easy to scale-up and manufacture. Bor-Kai (Bill) Hsiung and his colleagues at UA, Ghent University, Karlsruhe Institute of Technology and the University of Nebraska-Lincoln published their research, which is featured on the cover of the January 2017 journal of Advanced Optical Materials.

“Structural colors are more vibrant and durable than the pigments used in most human-made products,” explained Hsiung, the lead author of this research and a Biomimicry Fellow in the Integrated Bioscience Ph.D. program at The University of Akron. “They are produced by optical effects when light interacts with nanostructures that are about the same size as the wavelength of light.” Think of a peacock, or a butterfly. The problem is that most structural colors are strongly iridescent, changing color when viewed from different angles. It’s beautiful out in nature, but not very functional when we’re watching television and we move to a new seat.”

Pigments that never fade

The team first discovered that many vibrant blue tarantulas do not show iridescence even though the spiders use nanostructures to produce those colors. Since the spider's blue color is not iridescent, Hsiung’s team suggested that the same process could be applied to make pigment replacements that never fade, as well as to help reduce glare on wide-angle viewing systems in phones, televisions and other devices.

As they dug deeper, they found that the hairs of some species of blue tarantulas show a special flower-like shape that they hypothesized reduced the iridescent effect resulting from periodic structures. Then, thanks to the crowdfunding push they received earlier, they were able to test this hypothesis using a series of computer simulations and physical prototypes built using cutting-edge nano-3D printing technology.

Their color produced by the 3D printed structures has a viewing angle of 160 degrees, the largest viewing angle of any synthetic structural colors demonstrated.

“These structural colorants could be used as pigment replacements – many of which are toxic – in materials such as plastics, metal, textiles and paper, and for producing color for wide-angle viewing systems such as phones and televisions," Hsiung said.

The University of Akron

 

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COSMETICS EUROPE SURVEY SHOWS AN 82% REDUCTION IN USE OF PLASTIC MICROBEADS

Caring for the environment we all share is of utmost importance to the European cosmetics and personal care industry. In October 2015, in view of public concerns expressed over plastic litter in the marine environment and given the availability of alternative materials, Cosmetics Europe recommended to its membership to discontinue, in wash-off (1) cosmetic and personal care products placed on the market as of 2020: the use of synthetic, solid plastic particles used for exfoliating and cleansing (i.e. microbeads (2)) that are non-biodegradable in the marine environment. The Cosmetics Europe recommendation built on voluntary initiatives already taken by individual companies. A Cosmetics Europe survey, conducted in 2016, and covering use during 2015, assessed the effectiveness of these industry voluntary actions.

Today, Cosmetics Europe is delighted to share the results of its membership survey which found a rapid and substantial 82% reduction in the use of plastic microbeads for exfoliating and cleansing purposes in wash-off cosmetic and personal care products between 2012 (3) and 2015.

John Chave, Director General of Cosmetics Europe commented - ”This rapid and substantial reduction demonstrates the strength and effectiveness of the voluntary action taken by the European cosmetics and personal care industry. Given the significant progress made, Cosmetics Europe anticipates that we are on track to meet our objective of removing all plastic microbeads used for exfoliating and cleansing purposes in wash-off cosmetics and personal care products, ahead of our 2020 deadline.”

Loïc Armand, President of Cosmetics Europe said - “The Cosmetics Europe survey results show the significant progress our industry has made to date. As an environmentally minded industry that is taking positive action on this matter, Cosmetics Europe will continue to annually monitor and report the findings on the effectiveness of the European industry’s voluntary action, until we have achieved our final objective.“

Mr. Armand added - “We will also continue our work, in partnership with other stakeholders to ensure a holistic, risk and science based approach to plastic marine litter that will be of true benefit to the environment”.

It should be noted that many sources of plastic litter in the marine environment have been identified and quantified. In fact, scientific evidence suggests that the vast majority of microplastics (4) in the seas come from the breakdown of bigger plastic materials (5). In addition, it should be noted that scientific studies (6) show that up to 99% of microplastics are captured by waste water treatment plants.

The European cosmetics and personal care industry is taking action on this matter irrespective of the fact that the cosmetics and personal care sector is an extremely minor potential contributor to the total amount of aquatic plastic litter: one credible report estimated this to have been between 0.1%–1.5% in 2012 (3). Given the above survey results any such potential minor contribution will also now have been reduced significantly.

About the Cosmetics Europe recommendation 

In view of the public concerns expressed over plastic debris in the marine environment, and given the availability of alternative materials, many individual member companies of Cosmetics Europe publicly stated that they will discontinue those uses in cosmetics that potentially may end up in the aquatic environment and for which alternatives exist. Building on this, in order to engage the whole of the Cosmetics Europe membership and facilitate sector wide best practice, on 21st October 2015, Cosmetics Europe recommended to its membership to discontinue, in wash-off cosmetic products placed on the market as of 2020: The use of synthetic, solid plastic particles used for exfoliating and cleansing (i.e. microbeads) that are non-biodegradable in the marine environment. 

About the Cosmetics Europe Survey 

Cosmetics Europe requested all its members to complete a survey regarding their individual use of solid plastic particles in cosmetic products. The survey was focused on products marketed in the European Union, Norway and Switzerland. Members were requested to provide the INCI Name of the materials used, the particle size and particle shape for the year of 2015. For the purposes of the survey, participants were asked to provide information on petroleum-based solid particles in cosmetic products of any size < 5mm. The Cosmetics Europe survey was conducted in 2016 and covers the annual figures of the year 2015.

References and notes

  1. A wash-off product is a cosmetics product intended to be removed with water a short period of time after use e.g. in a bath or shower.
  2. A microbead is an intentionally added, 5 mm or less, water insoluble, solid plastic particle used to exfoliate or cleanse in wash-off personal care products.
  3. Gouin et al, 2015, “Use of Micro-Plastic Beads in Cosmetic Products in Europe and Their Estimated Emission to the North Sea Environment” found that in 2012 4360 tons were used.
  4. A micro-plastic is: Any 5 mm or less, water insoluble, solid plastic particle that could be found as marine litter.
  5. Sources of microplastics relevant to marine protection in Germany; Essel et al., 2015 Sources of microplastic pollution to the marine environment; Sundt et al., 2015 Microplastics: Occurrence, effects and sources of releases to the environment in Denmark; Lassen et al., 2015: Duis and Coors, Environ Sci Eur (2016) 28:2 “Microplastics in the aquatic and terrestrial environment: sources (with a specific focus on personal care products), fate and effects”: A report by the United Nations Environment Programme on plastic marine litter concludes, "Although the use of microplastics in [personal care products] may appear to represent a significant source, it is relatively small compared with other sources of… microplastics into the environment..."
  6. Screening of microplastic particles in and downstream a waste water treatment plant: Magnussen and Norden 2014.

Cosmetics Europe – The Personal care association

 

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SENSORS EMBEDDED IN SPORTS EQUIPMENT COULD PROVIDE REAL-TIME ANALYTICS TO YOUR SMARTPHONE

Sports analytics—tracking how fast the ball is moving or how players move across the field—is becoming a key component of how coaches make decisions and fans view games. Data for these analytics is currently sourced through cameras in stadiums and courts and is incredibly expensive to acquire.

The sensors are wrapped in a protective case and embedded in a cricket ball. They employ inferencing algorithms that can track movement to within a few centimeters, and accurately characterize 3D ball motion, such as trajectory, orientation, and revolutions per second.

The sensors are wrapped in a protective case and embedded in a cricket ball. They employ inferencing algorithms that can track movement to within a few centimeters, and accurately characterize 3D ball motion, such as trajectory, orientation, and revolutions per second.

In an effort to make big data analytics more accessible for the sports industry, CSL researchers have utilized IoT devices—low-cost sensors and radio—that can be embedded into sports equipment (e.g., balls, rackets, and shoes), as well as in wearable devices.

“There’s a lot of interest in analyzing sports data though high-speed cameras, but a system can cost up to $1 million to implement and maintain. It’s only accessible to big clubs,” said Mahanth Gowda, a PhD candidate in computer science and lead author. “We want to cut down the expense significantly by replacing cameras with inexpensive internet-of-things devices (costing less than $100 in total) to make it possible for many other organizations to use the technology.”

he team, led by CSL Professor Romit Roy Choudhury, jointly with Sharon Yang from Intel, have developed advanced motion tracking algorithms from the various incomplete and noisy measurements of inertial measurement unit (IMU) sensors and wireless radios, fitted inside a ball and players’ shoes. If the technology gains traction, real-time analytics should be possible at anytime, anywhere.

The tiny sensors, which are wrapped in a protective case and distributed evenly in equipment, employ inferencing algorithms that can track movement to within a few centimeters. They can accurately characterize 3D ball motion, such as trajectory, orientation, and revolutions per second.

“This level of accuracy and accessibility could help players in local clubs read their own performance from their smartphones via Bluetooth, or school coaches could offer quantifiable feedback to their students,” said Roy Choudhury, an associate professor of electrical and computer engineering and computer science at Illinois.

The feedback could also help with detecting and analyzing player injuries, such as concussions. The sensor inside a soccer ball, for example, can measure how hard it hits a player’s head, giving coaches an indication about whether to treat the player for head injury.

 “We’ve truly scratched the surface for applications with these sensors. The algorithms provide extremely fine-grained detail and accuracy in measurements, but use common measuring tools that can be found in any smartphone,” said Gowda.

The paper, to be published in USENIX NSDI 2017, explores tracking the 3D trajectory and spin parameters of a cricket ball; however, the core motion tracking techniques can be generalized to many different sports analytics.

The team, composed of students Ashutosh Dhekne, Sheng Shen, and other Intel collaborators, have also been developing methods to charge the sensors, including harvesting energy from the spin of the ball.

“We’re motivated to develop this technology to help coaches make better decisions on and off the field and provide enhanced entertainment to viewers,” said Roy Choudhury. “We want to bring advanced but affordable sports analytics to everyone, anywhere, anytime.” 

Engineering at Illinois



 

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