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Buyers of aromatic flavor and fragrance compounds will remember 2012 as still another difficult year, pursuing in the structural trend.
The reversals of market cycles in 2012 have had a beneficial effect on raw material prices:
  • As a result of a sharp decline in economic activity in Europe and a general slowdown in Asia and America, prices have come to a still for many synthetic raw materials and commodities.
  • This decrease in demand combined with good crop results have also caused prices to decline for certain essential oils, some major ones like Orange and Lavender essential oil.
  • Unfortunately, these same phenomena, favorable to certain raw material costs, were offset by upward trend factors resulting from:
  • Demand from emerging countries especially on basic natural raw materials.
  • Global world inflation driven by competing activities in the production of raw materials (subsistence crops, tourism, construction, etc.)
  • Natural disasters such as successive periods of frost and drought in Central Europe, major earthquakes in China, various occurrences of typhoons and floods that hit the Philippines and Indonesia.
  • Structural rise in energy costs, which affects the very energy-consuming production process of raw materials, from harvest, through distillation to delivery of the finished lots.
  • Transportation costs, road and air freight, have suffered a significant increase in 2012 and will most likely be repeated in 2013.
  • Meanwhile, new institutional factors result in even more inflation:
  • Regulatory constraints applied to aromatic raw material producers and fragrance and flavor industrials were greatly magnified in recent months and now affect production costs significantly.Certification processes (be it quality, food safety, good manufacturing practices, good hygiene practices, fair trade certification, regular audits) consecutive to the legitimate demands of end-consumers in terms of product safety, transparency and environmental & social values respect generate extra costs.
  • REACH Consortium for the creation and registration of all aromatic materials has been activated. Funding has been supported by the European producers and importers.
  • Certification processes (be it quality, food safety, good manufacturing practices, good hygiene practices, fair trade certification, regular audits) consecutive to the legitimate demands of end-consumers in terms of product safety, transparency and environmental & social values respect generate extra costs.
2013: Pressure Perspective on Raw Materials Costs

 In summary, based on current economic forecasts of moderate or pessimistic global growth, we expect a relatively stable price of synthetic raw materials. Natural raw materials will fluctuate in direct correlation with supply and demand. Therefore we advise to watch carefully the combination demand / harvest levels / possible speculative phenomena. All related costs to the raw material costs will be strongly inflated.
Edited by ELIXENS SA headquarters


The Skin aging regulator

These mechanisms, described in vivo in mice, engage molecule CD98hc, which is involved in epidermis renewal and could be an indicator of the skin's capacity for regeneration.
The results were published in the Journal of Experimental Medicine review.
The epidermis, the surface layer of the skin, is mainly composed of keratinocytes cells, which, in humans, are renewed continuously over a 21-day cycle. These cells are located on a membrane made up of components from the extracellular matrix that provides the junction with the dermis, the deep layer of the skin (see diagram). The epidermis is renewed by cell proliferation and differentiation that maintains the balance of adult tissues. This balance, known as "homeostasis", is essential for tissues to function correctly and any alterations to it are responsible for the physical changes associated with aging: sagging skin due to reduced skin cell proliferation, wound healing defects, loss of hair, etc.
The ATIP-Avenir team "Epidermal homeostasis and tumorigenesis" directed by Inserm researcher Chloé Féral, studied the numerous cellular factors involved in maintaining this balance. Particular attention was paid to CD98hc, a molecule known for its interaction with receptors that cause skin aging. With age, the activity of the transporter CD98hc and integrins (the receptors connected to the components in the extra cellular matrix) is disturbed. However, until now the mechanisms involved had never been identified.
Through their work, the researchers showed in vivo in mice that removing the gene CD98hc (coding gene for transporter CD98hc) disturbs skin balance and the healing process. By modifying cell proliferation and migration, removing this gene also causes a fault in the hair follicle cycle. The researchers have deciphered all the complex mechanisms associated with CD98hc, particularly integrin deregulation caused by this missing molecule in vivo. They confirm what was described in vitro: the amino acid transporter CD98hc modules the integrin signal, which is essential for skin renewal. As such, CD98hc actively participates in skin renewal through the efficient and widespread recruitment of skin cells when needed (healing a wound, for example).
"CD98hc appears to be necessary for rapid and effective skin renewal. Its reduced expression, observed in vivo in elderly mice, confirms its role in maintaining tissues, the hair follicle cycle and healing, which are disturbed with age," states Chloé Féral. "The status of carrier CD98hc in vivo could be an indicator of the skin's capacity to renew itself" she concludes.
Journal of Experimental Medicine, 2013, 210:173-190.

NOVEL APPROACHES NEEDED TO END GROWING SCOURGE OF 'SUPERBUGS' LA BioMed researcher calls for new understanding of antibiotic resistance and disease

Novel approaches needed to end growing scourge of superbugs

With the rising awareness of the so-called "superbugs," bacteria that are resistant to most known antibiotics, three infectious disease experts writing in the New England Journal of Medicine called for novel approaches based on a "reconceptualization of the nature of resistance, disease and prevention."
"Antibiotic-resistant microbes infect more than 2 million Americans every year and kill more than 100,000 annually," said Brad Spellberg, M.D., a Los Angeles Biomedical Research Institute at Harbor-UCLA Medical Center lead researcher and one of the authors of the viewpoint article published in the New England Journal of Medicine. "They spread rapidly, even in such seemingly harmless places as high school locker rooms, where they infect young athletes, and they can make mundane urinary or intestinal infections life-threatening. At the same time, the development of new antibiotics to treat these infections is plummeting, leading to our call for entirely new approaches to the problem."
Dr. Spellberg, author of the book, "Rising Plague: The Global Threat from Deadly Bacteria and Our Dwindling Arsenal to Fight Them," authored the article with Drs. John G. Bartlett and David N. Gilbert, both past presidents of the Infectious Diseases Society of America.
The article's authors called for continuing the traditional practices in "infection control, antibiotic stewardship, and new antibiotic development." But they also write that the World Economic Forum's recent conclusion that antibiotic-resistant bacteria represent "arguably the greatest risk…to human health" underscores the need for new approaches as well.
New interventions are needed "to prevent infections from occurring in the first place, to encourage new economic models that spur investment in anti-infective treatments, to slow the spread of resistance in order to prolong the useful lives of antibiotics, to discover new ways to directly attack microbes in a manner that does not drive resistance, or to alter host–microbe interactions in order to modify disease without directly attacking microbes," the researchers wrote.
Among their recommendations are stricter monitoring and controls for prescribing antibiotics and changes in hospital practices, including greater disinfection and less usage of invasive materials than can transmit antibiotic-resistant bacteria into the body.
They recommended new regulatory approaches to encourage antibiotic development, such as the Limited Population Antibiotic Drug (LPAD) proposal from the Infectious Diseases Society of America. They said this proposal would encourage the development new antibiotics by allowing their approval based on smaller, less expensive clinical trials.
They also called for new approaches to treating infections caused by bacteria. Rather than attacking the microbes causing the infection, the researchers urged scientists to pursue new courses of discovery that either "moderate the inflammatory response to infection or that limit microbial growth by blocking access to host resources without attempting to kill microbes."
"The converging crises of increasing resistance and collapse of antibiotic research and development are the predictable results of policies and processes we have used to deal with infections for 75 years," the authors write. "If we want a long-term solution, the answer is not incremental tweaking of these policies and processes. Novel approaches, based on a reconceptualization of the nature of resistance, disease, and prevention, are needed."

INTERPOLYMER has announced that the company complies with the Good Manufacturing Practices and has received the certification of conformity to the norm ISO 22716. The company refers that the coming In-Cosmetics is a good opportunity for INTERPOLYMER to showcase the latest polymer developed: SYNTRAN® PC5620. This polymer was specifically designed to formulate water-based nail polishes with excellent initial gloss and gloss retention but also good wear resistance and water resistance.

Sweetone® is a concentrate of active molecules derived from Chinese Schizandra berries. This newly patented active ingredient globally modulates inflammation and slows the proliferation of Endothelial cells, helping to reduce skin imperfections such as redness. Sweetone® also modulates melanogenesis by reducing the quantity of Melanin produced and the dendricity of Melanocytes. With its dual action, Sweetone® reduces skin redness and smoothes the complexion, making skin appear perfect again. This 100 percent natural, preservative-free active ingredient has been approved for the formulation of finished products certified by Ecocert Greenlife.

Thanks to its unique composition of black oat extract and lecithin, AQUARICH® possesses excellent skin moisturising properties and is well known for its deeply effective and long lasting improvement of skin hydration. The company explains that new studies reveal its remarkable repair-effect on hair: Applied on hair AQUARICH® improves hair structure, hair gloss and bounce back and helps prevent the formation of split ends. Furthermore AQUARICH® is now conform to the standards of Ecocert and COSMOS and can be incorporated in natural cosmetics.

Clariant will uncover its Secret Code of Beauty for the first time at in-cosmetics. Visitors to Booth B81 are invited to discover the Secret Code of Beauty to explore the perfect combination of unique codes and how it can benefit them. With its new concept, Clariant continues to strengthen its position as a solution provider and as one of the leaders in the Personal Care market - with a focus on skin and hair care. Anu Desikan, global Marketing Manager Personal Care at Clariant refers: “The essence of Personal Care lies in the perfect combination of precious ingredients, deep knowledge and innovative technologies. Our portfolio has been created to help our customers achieve success, whether in cosmetics, skin or hair care formulations, and we are looking forward to uncovering its potential at in-cosmetics”.

Alban Muller is launching this year two 100 percent natural and environmentally friendly new ingredients. Amiox ER is a natural antioxidant extracted from Rosemary, that protects cosmetic formulas. A screening has been carried out on more than 20 plants to select the one having the highest content in carnosic acid, a well-known antioxidant molecule. Amiox ER efficacy has been tested in vitro in borage oil, particularly sensitive to oxidation. The oxidation level is measured after exposure to light and heat. The antioxidant power of Amiox ER is higher than the one of BHT, positioning it as a natural and effective alternative to protect cosmetic formulas from oxidation.

SILAB has obtained the COSMOS certification for 5 active ingredients from its catalogue: OSILIFT® BIO, SENSILINE® BIO, GLYCO-REPAIR® BIO, STRUCTURINE® BIO, and VITANOL® BIO. This COSMOS certification confirms the global policy and ethics of SILAB, in compliance with the principles of the standard: -promote the use of ingredients obtained from organic farming; -use processes of production and transformation that are environment-friendly and have no adverse effect on human health.

Indena is presenting BosexilTM, an Olibanum extract formulated with a phospholipid-based technology to achieve a lenitive and soothing efficacy on skin. BosexilTM combines the lenitive and soothing effects of the triterpenoids with an enhanced skin bioavailability and its formulability in topical preparations has been also optimized.

Dermofeel viscolid is an excellent natural thickener for oils and can convert every liquid oil into a solid product. Dermofeel viscolid works with mineral oils and vegetable oils that can be mixed with essential oils too. The company explains that the solidifying properties of this 100 percent natural raw material make it possible to increase the viscosity of W/O emulsions without increasing the body or sensorial profile of the formulation.

BASF will start taking the Care CreationsTM brand to the next level. Jan-Peter Sander, Senior Vice President of BASF Personal Care Europe refers: “We are all very excited to launch the second level of the Care CreationsTM brand at this year’s in-cosmetics […] We will take an even closer look at real life from a face-to-face perspective as if we were standing right next to the consumers themselves. This market empathy combined with our science excellence enables us to support our customers with innovative, market driven solutions”.

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