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Sensory profiling of cosmetic products: Could it be easier? Use of rheology and textural analysis

corresponding

MILICA LUKIC*, IVANA PANTELIC, SNEZANA SAVIC
*Corresponding Author
University of Belgrade, Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, Vojvode Stepe 450, 11000 Belgrade, Serbia

Abstract

Sensory evaluation studies are performed in order to obtain full sensory profile of the cosmetic product. Since these studies are comprehensive, time-consuming and consequently expensive, the potential use of instrumental measurements that correlate with sensory properties is being extensively assessed. The existing studies confirm that direct and good correlations could be found between instrumentally measured parameters and some sensory attributes. Certain sensory attributes, used for the description of the product in pick up and rub in phase, could be predicted to some extent by instrumental, i.e. rheological and textural measurements. Therefore, sensory profiling could be simplified and consequently more cost-effective with the employment of instrumental tools.


INTRODUCTION

In order to appear in the market modern cosmetics have to fulfill a set of regulatory demands, mainly focused on efficacy and safety. Nevertheless, consumers’ acceptance is undeniably the most important factor determining a product’s market life. Regarding consumer acceptance, proper sensory characteristics have to be achieved for every cosmetic product. From consumers’ point of view, one could say that sensory characteristics are as significant as efficacy and safety; moreover, they represent the biggest part of products’ sales potential (1). Therefore, it’s no surprise that sensory evaluation has gained great importance in R&D and gathered scientists of different profiles around something that became an interesting scientific field. Although a proper sensory analysis requires the use of a panel of human evaluators, certain efforts have been made in order to include instrumental measurements in sensory evaluation. In the field of emulsions research and development, rheological measurements and texture analysis are regarded as highly informative techniques. This paper is the review of current possibilities in sensory evaluation ...




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