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The extent of analytical screening for cosmetic products and raw materials quality

corresponding

CLAIRE THOMAS, SEGOLENE DE VAUGELADE, STEPHANE PIRNAY*
*Corresponding author
EXPERTOX Laboratory, 14 rue Godefroy Cavaignac, 75011 Paris, France

Abstract

In the manufacture of cosmetic product and raw materials, many impurities are able to contaminate them. These impurities come from raw materials itself, manufacturing process and packaging. This contamination may affect the safety of the product or raw materials for consumers. Hence the European Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 requires manufacturers to control quality of their finished product and raw materials. Analytical screening is a method which may be used to carry out this control. Moreover screening could be used to carry out aging and counterfeit study of cosmetic product and raw materials.


INTRODUCTION

Since the application of the European Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 in July 2013, safety assessment of cosmetic products has been reinforced (1). Indeed this new regulation, contrary to the previous regulation (the cosmetic directive 76/768/CEE) (2), requires that manufacturers evaluate the stability of their product, the interaction between the product and the packaging, absence of prohibited compound (not technologically inevitable), eye and skin irritation (depending on the product), and also the justification of claims by efficiency tests. Moreover, the safety assessor has to study toxicological data of all ingredients present in the cosmetic product. Henceforth manufacturers of raw materials and finished products must prove among other things that products do not contain prohibited substances which can have harmful effects for consumer health. Indeed contaminations or deteriorations of raw materials or products are multiple. Different sources of contamination are possible like raw materials, manufacturing process and the interaction with packaging (3). The main sources of finished product contamination are mostly raw materials and packag ...