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- 04/20/2017

Five minutes at In-Cosmetics with…
Nicolas Lasbistes, Clariant

H&PC Today


At In-cosmetics 2017, CLARIANT introduced new trends and new active ingredients for the Personal Care market.
Nicolas Lasbistes, Clariant Personal Care, Global Technical Marketing Manager for Personal Care, Business Unit Industrial & Consumer Specialties commented: “Building on the format and successes of the previous edition, BeautyForward edition II shifts to an “outside-in” approach and provides tangible support to help customers pioneer new growth pockets and be one step ahead of their competition. Market insights are transformed into concepts which are turned into reality through inspiring formulations.
The backbone formulations are based on product ingredients that can deliver a premium, creative edge to brands.” 


How CLARIANT has developed in these years the BeautyForward concept for the Personal Care Market?

BeautyForward® relies on a superb unique Clariant process. We introduced the first edition last year, following extensive work with beauty trend experts and personal care industry professionals to apply identified social and cultural changes into personal care trends linking Clariant’s formulations and products. The trend guide was very well received by our customers. Indeed, a customer told us that BeautyForward is fashionable and different, and that the formulations can be used in their speed-to-market strategy. It’s great to hear that we’re on the right track, but also knowing how our customers make use of the information is important. That’s what has inspired our approach this time round.

We want our customers to continue to benefit from insights into trends, related consumer profiles and our formulation inspirations. It helps them to be one step ahead in their product development. But trends evolve and new trends emerge. So, we’ve been hard at work again to respond to changing times and identify the four most relevant global trends which we think will have a deep impact on the beauty business in the coming year. 

The new trends introduced are:

CUSTOM: People are now looking for ways to celebrate their individuality, with out-of-the-ordinary experiences that help them find and express the optimum version of themselves. Beauty is about making a bold personal statement with an individual sense of style.
Formulation highlight – ELIXIR boosters for moisturizers.

ORIGIN: People are looking to hold on to their origins while celebrating the diversity around them. For hair and skin care, people are looking for products inspired by natural and traditional ingredients. Hence provenance is becoming increasingly important in beauty”. Beauty is about feeling good in your own skin.
Formulation highlight: Facial Honey Gel. From natural plant extracts from Asia and sugar based ingredients from Europe.

REVIVE: The constant stream of change drives people to look for emerging products and to keep up with the exciting new world around them. Beauty is about changing styles, beauty routines, playing with different looks, and discovering trends.
Formulation highlight: YOUTH ACTIVATING MILKY WAY is an AM light youth balm that helps improve tonicity to keep skin looking younger longer and fight damaging effect of pollutants during the day.

BALANCE: People are looking for products that feel exclusive, indulgent, and exciting – like a beauty retreat – to break their routine and restore balance. Beauty relies on products which create an escape through transformative and indulgent experiences.
Formulation highlight – CLAYTASTIC CLEANSER with BioDTox: This super mild facial wash deep-cleans the skin preventing it from irritation whilst providing natural protection against pollution.


Indoor Pollution: a new active: Eosidin ™

This active is the result of the research of a new team based in Tolouse, France. Can you talk about team work?) work and describe the properties related to this new active?

The team’s priorities will be to extend Clariant’s existing portfolio of naturally-sourced products from BioSpectrum and Beraca with the future development of novel nature-inspired
active ingredients.
Eosidin™ originates from the protected reserve of Jeju Island in Korea. The extract is enriched in highly potent molecules: Synephrine, Hesperidin, and Naringin, which play a major role in regulating the immuno-modulation and decrease hypersensitivity conditions. By targeting eotaxin and eosinophils recruitment in the skin, which are key factors in the skin’s immune response, Eosidin is able to reduce atopic-prone skin conditions.
The new innovation from Clariant’s Active Ingredients Business has a unique mode of action and is proven to control each step of the atopic-prone skin process triggered by indoor pollution. In a test formulation based on 2% Eosidin, all results are already significant after 4 weeks. A dermatologist evaluated the decrease of atopic-prone skin condition and confirmed a -44% after 8 weeks. Volunteers also evaluated their itching index (VAS) and it was dramatically decreased by -65% after 8 weeks. Hydration increased by +54%, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was reduced by -30% showing an improved skin barrier function after 8 weeks. 95% of the clincial volunteers noticed a decrease of skin itchiness and 86% decrease in skin dryness.
Eosidin is water soluble and easy to formulate for typical face and body formulations, such as face and body creams, serums, lotions, masks, toners and facial mists. The ingredient has no impact on formulation color or smell, and is China compliant.