P. 22-25 /

Emulsification with nature based ingredients for personal care

corresponding

JAANA AHTIKARI1, ANJU BANSAL2, PHILIP H JACKSON3, YOGESH SOLANKI4*
*Corresponding author
1. CP Kelco Oy, Kuhnamontie 2, FI-44101 Äänekoski, Finland
2. CP Kelco Us Inc, 8225 Aero Drive, San Diego, CA 92123-1718, USA
3. CP Kelco (Singapore) Pte Ltd, #06-07 Lobby G, New Tech Park, 151 Lorong Chuan, 556741, Singapore
4. CP Kelco UK Limited, Cleeve Court, Cleeve Road, Leatherhead, Surrey KT22 7UD, United Kingdom

Abstract

In personal care applications there is increased consumer interest in ingredients that are perceived as “natural” and “green”. The reasons are complex but chiefly due to ethical and health concerns leading to a desire for ingredients that are perceived as mild and free of health concerns. In the case of surfactant emulsifiers adverse claims have been made about skin hypersensitivity and allergic responses so technology that avoids such issues is desirable. The newly developed multi-component system based on hydrocolloids can provide solutions for these needs. Due to the optimised hydrocolloid combination in the multi-component system, this technology allows texture enhancement in addition to surfactant free emulsion stability.


 

CONSUMER TRENDS

A search of all skincare new product launches in Mintel’s Global New Products Database for the period January 2010 to December 2012 in the top 10 claims, ‘natural’ is the 2nd highest claim and ‘free-from’ is the 7th claim (1). In certain markets it can be seen that products positioned with the perception of naturalness are moving from niche to mainstream status. The consumer’s awareness of the ethical issues and sustainability has led to an increased demand for natural products. These trends have led to dissatisfaction with well established ingredients e.g. some surfactant emulsifiers have been linked to skin hypersensitivity and allergic reactions. Hence, there is a need for milder, safer and in general, friendlier ingredients, which are free from health related concerns such as allergies. The certifying bodies like COSMOS are working on with a uniform definition for natural products, but we do not currently have one global standard for natural or green ingredients. Although, there does not exist today an unambiguous definiti ...