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P. 59-64 /

New cosmetic aspects of Papaver Rhoeas

* Corresponding author
1. Merck KGaA, Frankfurter Strasse 250, 64293 Darmstadt, Germany
2. Greenpharma, 3 Allée du Titane, 45100 Orléans, France


Papaver rhoeas extract is a new natural ingredient derived from the seeds of the field poppy flower showing lipolytic activity. Several in vitro and ex vivo investigations indicate the ability of Papaver rhoeas extract to influence lipogenesis and lipolysis. Papaver rhoeas extract is able to reduce the G3PDH activity, an enzyme involved in the neo-synthesis of intracellular lipids. The extract can activate lipolysis ex vivo as shown by a higher release of free fatty acids and changes in the morphology of adipocytes (increasing amount of smaller adipocytes and simultaneous decreasing amount of bigger adipocytes). These results demonstrate that Papaver rhoeas extract may represent an attractive option that can be used for skin firming, skin shaping or anti-cellulite cosmetic products.

Papaver rhoeas - better known as corn poppy, corn rose, field poppy, red poppy, or coquelicot is abundant in nature. There are between 50 and 120 differently known worldwide species. Sometimes Papaver rhoeas is so abundant in agricultural fields that it may even be mistaken for a crop. The flower is large and showy, with four vivid red petals, most commonly seen with a black spot at their base. The red wild form is often grown as an ornamental plant. Beyond the ornamental appearance the poppy flower offers a variety of attractive applications. Petals of Papaver rhoeas can be used to sooth coughs. Seeds of Papaver rhoeas are used as a food ingredient or for oil production that offers an oil option with a nutty taste (1, 2, 3). Based on the available information of how ancient cultures used the Papaver rhoeas in addition to the modern uses of this type of crop, we decided to evaluate Papaver rhoeas for other applications including cosmetic use. Furthermore, this search is encouraged by the search for new, natural and sustainable active cosmetic ingredients as desired by many consumers.

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