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Organogels for cosmetic and dermo-cosmetic applications
Classification, preparation and characterization of organogel formulations – PART 1

corresponding

KIRILOV PLAMEN1*, LE CONG ANH KHANH1, DENIS ALICE1, RABEHI HALIMA1, RUM SILVIA2, VILLA CARLA2, HAFTEK MAREK1,3, PIROT FABRICE1,4
* Corresponding author
1. Université Lyon 1, EA 4169 “Aspects fondamentaux, cliniques et thérapeutiques de la fonction cutanée”, SFR Lyon-Est Santé, INSERM US 7, CNRS UMS 3453
Laboratoire de Pharmacie Galénique Industrielle, ISPB, 8 Avenue Rockefeller 69737 Lyon Cédex 08, France
2. Dipartimento di Scienze Farmaceutiche dell’Università, Viale Denedetto XV, Genova, Italia
3. Université Lyon 1, EA 4169 “Aspects fondamentaux, cliniques et thérapeutiques de la fonction cutanée”, SFR Lyon-Est Santé, INSERM US 7, CNRS UMS 3453
Laboratoire de Dermatologie, ISPB, 8 Avenue Rockefeller, F-69737 Lyon, Cédex 08, France
4. Groupement Hospitalier Eduard Herriot, Service Pharmaceutique, Fabrication et contrôles des médicaments, Pavillon X, Place d’Arsenal, 69437 Lyon, Cédex 03, France

Abstract

Organogels are semi-solid systems in which an organic liquid phase is immobilized by a three-dimensional network composed of low molecular weight or polymeric components. Recently, they have raised an increasing interest in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic and food industry. Numerous cosmetic products based on organogels formulations are marketed. Many studies now focus on new applications of organogels and therefore, aim to develop novel systems of organogels and new generations of organogelators.
In this review, methods of preparation and characterization of organogel will be described, as well as different classifications and current applications in the cosmetic field, more particularly in dermo-cosmetics.


INTRODUCTION

Along with the rising customers’ incomes and their interest in beauty, cosmetic and dermo-cosmetic industry has continuously been developing for the last century. According to l’Oréal, results in 2013 showed this industry is particularly dynamic which is valued about 172 billion euros and experienced an annual increase of 3.8%. Among 6 main categories of cosmetic industry, the skincare sector makes up the largest part of the global cosmetic market, accounting 33.8% in 2012 and is also leading in terms of growth potential with an expected increase of 6% by 2025 (1, 2). In addition to identify attractive active ingredients and new pharmacological targets, an important strategy of developing cosmetic products for skin care is to design more effective delivery systems for cosmetic agents.
The skin has been known as an advantageous route of administration for numerous active pharmaceutic and cosmetic ingredients. It offers the possibility for a non-invasive delivery which is controllable, without the risk of gastrointestinal degradation or first-pass liver metabolism of active ingredients. However, as a complex organ designed to iso ...




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