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P. 51-54 /

Pore refining and control of sebum production
Barosma betulina-derived active against visible signs of greasy skin

corresponding

LAURA GALLEGO*, LOURDES MAYORDOMO, BLANCA MARTÍNEZ-TEIPEL, RICARD ARMENGOL
*Corresponding author
Provital, S.A., Pol.Ind. Can Salvatella, Gorgs Lladó 200, Barberà del Vallès, Spain

Abstract

Enlarged and noticeable pores is one of the most common issues on women’s skin of all ages and is known to be related to the size and activity of the sebaceous gland. The production of sebum, sebogenesis, is the main process in which the sebaceous gland is involved. Recent research shows many novel mechanisms involved in this phenomenon, among which ectopeptidases stand out as new target molecules capable of modulating sebogenesis. Here, it is described a Barosma betulina-derived active, rich in flavonoids, that is capable of inhibiting a specific ectopeptidase called aminopeptidase N (APN). This leads to a reduction in sebocyte differentiation and lipid synthesis, resulting in a decrease of sebum secretion and, therefore, a refining of pores.


INTRODUCTION

Oily skin is a prevalent problem affecting men and women of all ages and ethnic groups. Although, generally speaking, an oily skin does not have serious consequences on body functions, a chronically oily skin can lead to obvious aesthetic problems (a greasy shiny skin with enlarged pores, acne…) and it can cause negative psychological effects (1).
Several studies claim that between 66 percent and 75 percent of young people from 15 to 20 years are affected by this problem. However, it does not affect only young people, since it has been seen that half of women between 20 and 30 years old and also 70 percent of Asiatic women from 40 to 60 years complain about problems related to oily skin such as enlarged pores (2).
Pores are conically shaped holes, full of nucleated cells, located in the skin furrows. Nowadays, pore size is known to be related to the size and activity of the sebaceous gland, thus if we reduce this activity we will also obtain narrower pores (3).

New strategies to target sebogenesis
Sebaceous glands are acinous glands that are associated to hair follicles forming the pilosebac ...




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