ANDREA MITAROTONDA, PhD CChem FRSC
Consultant in Cosmetic Formulation Chemistry, United Kingdom

Self-tanning technology has been around for some 40 years and has hugely developed during this time.
The discovery of the acute and chronic damage that can be caused by exposure to the sun rays has upgraded the role of self-tanning to a safer alternative to sun bathing and sun beds.
This product has been developed as a mousse, utilising a foaming pump.
Dihydroxyacetone is the main ingredient featured in this product.
Regarded as a difficult-to-formulate ingredient, Dihydroxyacetone, or simply DHA, can successfully be formulated into stable products if some precautions are taken.
The choice of ingredients is critical: the presence of Nitrogen-containing molecules, in particular, can trigger the reactivity of DHA.
Amino groups will undergo the same Maillard reaction that takes place with the amines of the stratum corneum, resulting in discolouration of the product and consumption of the DHA: not only will this result in a less aesthetically pleasing product, but also in decreased efficacy.
Other commonly used ingredients that should be avoided are, amongst others: EDTA, polyacrylates, Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxid ...