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Supercritical CO2 encapsulation of cosmetic ingredients
Novel methods for tailoring ingredients for the cosmetics industry

corresponding

MADALINA V. NATU, HAYLEY A. EVERY*
*Corresponding author
FeyeCon Carbon Dioxide Technologies, Rijnkade 17A,
1382 GS Weesp, The Netherlands

Abstract

Microencapsulation processes based on carbon dioxide (CO2) are used to deliver, protect, stabilise or control the release of active ingredients such as pigments, antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, peptides, proteins, and fragrances for the next generation of cosmetics products. The interaction between CO2 and the matrix materials allows for the formation of defect-free particles with high encapsulation efficiencies and payloads. The removal of CO2 is simply done by depressurisation to the gas state ensuring that the ingredients are solvent-free, yet well protected. CO2 processes are versatile, scalable and cost effective, while the ability to tune the processing conditions allows for greater control of particle characteristics, thus permitting particle customisation for a specific cosmetic application (controlled/triggered release, ingredient stabilisation, formulation compatibility, sensorial properties).


INTRODUCTION

Encapsulation is the process of incorporating an ingredient (core/load) into a capsule/particle consisting of a coating material, in order to improve the functionality or performance of the core. A wide range of ingredients can be encapsulated, including fragrances, pigments, antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, peptides, proteins, and hormones. By optimising the particle characteristics, such as the particle size and morphology as well as the choice of coating material, encapsulates can be tailored to deliver, protect, stabilise or control the release of the coated ingredient.

Tailoring ingredient functionality
The ability to tailor ingredient functionality makes encapsulation a powerful tool for cosmetic product development, providing greater flexibility in the choice of delivery mechanisms and materials that can be used (1, 2). The following are some examples how encapsulation can improve ingredient performance in cosmetic formulations.

Stabilisation of active ingredients
Sensitive active cosmetic ingredients can be isolated within the core of a microcapsule in order ...




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