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The challenges of formulating “beauty from within” products for skincare

corresponding

HOWARD A. EPSTEIN
EMD Chemicals, One International Plaza, Suite 300, Philadelphia, PA 19113, USA

Abstract

A common belief of nutritional experts during the past decade was that the root cause of many diseases of aging was cumulative oxidative damage. This view appeared to be supported by the history of nutrition containing numerous examples of nutritional components in the diet that are directly linked with the health of skin. Examples included skin conditions associated with discovery vitamins A, C, E and B. Numerous foods, dietary supplements and topical products are commercialized promoting health benefits provided through anti oxidant and other biological properties. More recently epidemiological observations indicate that many nutrients are not delivering the health benefits claimed.


INTRODUCTION

The association of malnutrition and skin health has been observed for hundreds of years. Vitamins and trace elements were found to be essential for maintenance of skin health. In 1956 Denham Harman postulated that free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) are associated with progressive biological damage that characterizes aging (1). This theory became known as the antioxidant theory and resulted in numerous publications and development of topical and nutritional products based on the antioxidant theory. Consistent with this theory free radicals and reactive oxygen species were considered harmful., The approach in product development was to formulate products with high antioxidant content to minimize the risk for chronic disease. More recently with advances in molecular biology the paradigm has changed. Currently there are advances in our understanding of the complexities of cellular defenses, cell signalling pathways, the role of oxidative stress and the body defense system that eliminates reactive oxygen species (2). Individuals diagnosed with anorexia nervosa frequently have symptoms including dry skin, hair loss and nail irregulari ...




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