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Behind the label

What is it?

The ingredient list, or INCI list, can be a real goldmine for those skilled in the art:
understanding what other Formulators use when developing a cosmetic product
is an interesting part of our job. It is educational as well as insightful.

Skin Doctors Stem Cell Science Youth Activating Cream

The product, an oil-in-water emulsion, has been formulated around three “hero ingredients”, i.e. a peptide complex, apple stem cells and teprenone.
The peptide complex is a combination of Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (INCI name now retired) and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7.
These peptides come in an aqueous vehicle also containing Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer and Polysorbate 20.
This well-known patented ingredient (WO2005/048968) supports the activation of the cutaneous repair process, and in particular at the level of the fragile and UV-damage prone papillary dermis. It promotes wrinkle smoothing and improves tone and elasticity.
Both peptides are capable of regulating cell activities by interacting with their specific receptors.