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A crisis can be a real blessing …
Let’s not pretend that things will change if we keep doing the same things. A crisis can be a real blessing to any person, to any nation. For all crises bring progress. Creativity is born from anguish. Just like the day is born form the dark night. It’s in crisis that inventive is born, as well as discoveries, and big strategies. He who overcomes crisis, overcomes himself, without getting overcome.

He who blames his failure to a crisis neglects his own talent, and is more respectful to problems than to solutions. Incompetence is the the true crisis. The greatest inconvenience of people and nations is the laziness with which they attempt to find the solutions to their problems. There’s no challenge without a crisis. Without challenges, life becomes a routine, a slow agony. There’s no merits without crisis. It’s in the crisis where we can show the very best in us. Without a crisis, any wind becomes a tender touch.
To speak about a crisis is to promote it. Not to speak about it is to exalt conformism. Let us work hard instead. Let us stop, once and for all, the menacing crisis that represents the tragedy of not being willing to overcome it.

Abert Eistein (Ulm 1879 – Princeston 1955) in the thirties -


Here comes the sun to lower your blood pressure
Exposing skin to sunlight may help to reduce blood pressure and thus cut the risk of heart attack and stroke, a study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology suggests.
Research carried out at the Universities of Southampton and Edinburgh shows that sunlight alters levels of the small messenger molecule, nitric oxide (NO) in the skin and blood, reducing blood pressure.
Martin Feelisch, Professor of Experimental Medicine and Integrative Biology at the University of Southampton, comments: "NO along with its breakdown products, known to be abundant in skin, is involved in the regulation of blood pressure. When exposed to sunlight, small amounts of NO are transferred from the skin to the circulation, lowering blood vessel tone; as blood pressure drops, so does the risk of heart attack and stroke."
While limiting sunlight exposure is important to prevent skin cancer, the authors of the study, including Dr Richard Weller of the University of Edinburgh, suggest that minimising exposure may be disadvantageous by increasing the risk of prevalent conditions related to cardiovascular disease.
Cardiovascular disease, often associated with high blood pressure, accounts for 30 per cent of deaths globally each year. Blood pressure and cardiovascular disease are known to vary according to season and latitude, with higher levels observed in winter and in countries further from the equator, where ultraviolet radiation from the sun is lower.
During the study, the skin of 24 healthy individuals was exposed to ultraviolet (UVA) light from tanning lamps for two sessions of 20 minutes each. In one session, the volunteers were exposed to both the UVA rays and the heat of the lamps. In another, the UV rays were blocked so that only the heat of the lamps affected the skin.
The results suggest that UVA exposure dilates blood vessels, significantly lowers blood pressure, and alters NO metabolite levels in the circulation, without changing vitamin D levels. Further experiments indicate that pre-formed stores of NO in the upper skin layers are involved in mediating these effects. The data are consistent with the seasonal variation of blood pressure and cardiovascular risk at temperate latitudes.
Professor Feelisch adds: "These results are significant to the ongoing debate about potential health benefits of sunlight and the role of Vitamin D in this process. It may be an opportune time to reassess the risks and benefits of sunlight for human health and to take a fresh look at current public health advice. Avoiding excess sunlight exposure is critical to prevent skin cancer, but not being exposed to it at all, out of fear or as a result of a certain lifestyle, could increase the risk of cardiovascular disease. Perhaps with the exception of bone health, the effects of oral vitamin D supplementation have been disappointing.
"We believe that NO from the skin is an important, so far overlooked contributor to cardiovascular health. In future studies we intend to test whether the effects hold true in a more chronic setting and identify new nutritional strategies targeted at maximizing the skin's ability to store NO and deliver it to the circulation more efficiently." 

Laundering money — literally — could save billions of dollars
A dollar bill gets around, passing from hand to hand, falling on streets and sidewalks, eventually getting so grimy that a bank machine flags it and sends it to the shredder. Rather than destroying it, scientists have developed a new way to clean paper money to prolong its life. The research, which appears in the ACS journal Industrial & Engineering Chemistry Research, could save billions and minimize the environmental impact of banknote disposal.
Nabil M. Lawandy and Andrei Smuk point out that replacing old currency is a growing problem. When bills become too dirty, central banks take them out of circulation and replace them with crisp new bills. As a result, the world’s treasuries print nearly 150 billion new banknotes every year at a cost approaching $10 billion. And about 150,000 tons of old bills become destined for shredding and disposal. The main culprit for this costly turnover is human sebum, the oily, waxy substance the body produces to protect skin — also the bane of acne-prone teenagers. Over a bill’s lifetime of about 3 to 15 years depending on the denomination, sebum accumulates on its surface, reacts with oxygen in the air and turns a yellowish hue. To delay a banknote’s retirement, Lawandy’s team decided to see if they could just clean it, removing the accumulated sebum.
They turned to “supercritical” CO2, which acts like both a gas and a liquid and is commonly used in other cleaning applications. When they tested it on banknotes from around the world, they found that it effectively removed oxidized sebum and motor oil while leaving intact security features such as holograms and phosphorescent inks.


RES PHARMA is enthusiastic to announce the opening of its UK establishment RES PHARMA UK. The establishment will be headed by International Business Director Letizia Facchini-Harrison. Res Pharma UK will help take Res Pharma’s international business to the next level. Res Pharma UK will initiate a new approach to International Business through the use of the latest generation of communication media and a distinct new management model for the company’s International distribution network. The goal of this new venture is to increase the worldwide recognition of the Res Pharma brand.


Eurosyn Spa, leading distributor in Italy of surfactants and specialties for industrial applications (i.e. Personal Care and Detergents) has been appointed as local representative of JRS - Rettenmaier & Sohne Gmbh & Co. KG leader in the fibre industry. As far as the personal care market is concerned JRS offer an alternative to the use of Polyethylene in the production of cosmetics for peeling and product for personal care such as shower gel and toothpaste: this alternative come from the Cellulose. As peeling-additive the product ECOCERT certified is available in two particle sizes and competitive to PE regarding the price. Furthermore it can be used as a carrier for actives. This friendly environment green “polymer” is surely a valid proposal for the environmental issues the personal care, cosmetic market is facing today.


Couperose denotes a persistent dilation and relaxation of the blood vessels in the facial region and is characterised by a typical copper-red colouration which can result in visible small blood vessels (telangiectasia), particularly in the area of the cheeks, but also on the nose or forehead. If the damage progresses, it can lead to severely inflammatory changes in the blood vessels, also known as rosacea. DEFENSIL®-PLUS is a highly effective, natural first-aid kit to alleviate stressed, sensitive and irritable skin. The special properties of blackcurrant seed oil and balloon vine extract in combination with sunflower oil concentrate effectively reduce inflammatory processes and replenish the damaged skin barrier. DEFENSIL®-PLUS soothes various forms of skin irritation; acute irritation as a result of razor burn, or from Mosquito bites are both significantly reduced. Chemically irritated skin also is protected and gently regenerated. In summary, DEFENSIL®-PLUS markedly relieves dry, itchy, allergy-prone skin and gives those plagued by eczema a new lease of life. For its innovative studies and excellent documentation the active ingredient has received the BSB innovation award in the category of natural products.

Indena is pleased to present its latest innovative extract of Centella asiatica (L.) for a novel hair care application, Centerox®. According to the clinical results, it shows high tolerability, promising strengthening and envigorating potential on hair and it is suitable for products specif cally designed to improve hair follicle resistance and reduce hair loss due to frequent washing. In the (placebo-controlled) clinical trial conducted on thirty volunteers of both genders selected for suffering from telogen eff uvium or androgenic alopecia (rated I-III on Norwood-Hamilton scale for men and I on Ludwid’s scale for women) the treated group has shown a statistically signif cant increase of hair resistance to traction by 25 percent (p<0.05) in the pull test evaluation and a massive decrease of the number of hair lost during washing (- 41.2 percent, p<0.01 versus a non-statistically signif cant decrease induced by the placebo by 5.7 percent) in the wash test assessment.

IDEA Lab is proud to announce that toxicity and mutagenicity studies have obtained the certif cate of compliance with Good Laboratory Practices, delivered by the GIPC (Interministerial Group of Chemical Products), since November, 9th 2013.

Givaudan’s f rst initiative in farming partnerships has been f nalised through the signature of a long term exclusive agreement with local partner GaiaOne and Kebun Rimau SDN BHD in the Malaysian state of Sabah, on the island of Borneo. The partners have committed to develop sustainable plantations and local distillation of patchouli, an iconic natural raw material for both f ne fragrance and functional perfumery, exclusively for Givaudan.

Evonik’s Personal Care Business Line introduces its comprehensive concept providing individual solutions for the modern man. This concept encompasses a consumer survey covering market insights on male grooming routines, as well as the implementation of our own scientific studies on male skin and the development of selected formulations just for men with proven efficacy data. The Men’s toiletries market is one of the fastest growing categories in terms of value and volume in the beauty and personal care industry. Silke Langer, Global Marketing Manager Rinse-Off refers: “Responding to these market needs, Evonik’s Personal Care Business Line has developed a next generation Men’s Care concept, which is based on our extensive experience in chemistry, biology and marketing”.


Book review

Fragrance and Wellbeing - Plant Aromatics and Their Influence on the Psyche

For thousands of years fragrances have been used, across many cultures, for altering mental and emotional states, and as part of spiritual or religious practices. The book provides the reader with a great range of topics in the field of fragrances and wellbeing. Among many other things the biology of fragrance, scents and social life, healing-powers of scents and rituals from around the world make this book a unique melange of myth, folklore and the science behind. Besides this it also helps the reader to develop and cultivate its olfactory capacities. The approach of the books takes the reader on a journey throughout the history of civilisation and touches all corners of the world on the trail of olfactive culture and perception and its therapeutic applications. 

Beginning with an exploration of our olfactory system and a discussion of the language of odour, the author examines the ways in which fragrance can influence our perceptions and experiences. It introduces us to a broad range of fragrance types – woody, resinous, spicy, herbaceous, agrestic, floral and citrus, as well as the attars that form part of graeco-arabic medicine. The mood-enhancing properties of fragrance types are explained to the reader. Fragrance and Wellbeing - Plant Aromatics and Their Influence on the Psyche provides in addition an overview of the theoretical and philosophical frameworks that have been used to analyse how and why we choose a fragrance.
The book bases on a sound sound historical, scientific and technical basis, it is extremely well organised and written in an extremely clear way. The glossary as well as a series of appendices makes out of this book an extremely precious tool. A complete and up-to-date bibliography completes the handbook and represents a precious source of further information for all those who want to expand their knowledge on the effects of fragrances.

Author information
Jennifer Peace Rhind is a Chartered Biologist with a Ph.D. in Mycotoxicology from the University of Strathclyde. Her long-standing interest in Complementary and Alternative Medicine (CAM) has led to qualifications in massage, aromatherapy and reflexology, and for thirteen years she worked as a therapist and partner in a multidisciplinary complementary healthcare clinic. During this time she became involved in CAM education in the private sector and co-founded the first professionally accredited CAM school in Scotland. She was a lecturer on the B.A. (Hons) Complementary Healthcare programme at Edinburgh Napier University for fourteen years, and remains involved in scent education. She lives in Biggar near the Scottish Borders.

By Jennifer Peace RhindJanuary 2014, 448 pages, paperbackPublished by Singing DragonISBN: 978-1-84819-090-0


Book review

Sustainability: How the Cosmetics Industry is Greening Up

“When I was approached about the prospects of a book on green issues in the cosmetics industry, I was apprehensive. I was apprehensive not about the prospects of the book, but about me: how could I find the time for such a book, considering I was running a business, frequently travelling to various parts of the world, whilst trying to juggle the demands of family life? After some thought, I reluctantly accepted the invitation for I considered it a service … it would be a way of sharing some of the knowledge we (the contributors) had accumulated to advance sustainability in the cosmetic industry. …”

This is the incipit of the preface of Amarjit Sahota to “Sustanainability: How the Cosmetics Industry is Greening up”, a book published by John Wiley & Sons in 2014.

We know well Amarjit Sahota from Organic Monitor (London UK). We last met him at the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit in Paris, in October 2013. Amarjit chaired, as usual, the summit with professionalism and passion. Great passion, also because sustainability is no more a simple “green flag” every company takes on the tower of the castle just to make the claim “I’m the best”. Sustainability is someone knocking at our door. Sustainability consists of millions of faces of people we know and people we don’t know. Sustainability is THE challenge, the battle we have to win for our own future. Because our tomorrow depends on the choices we make today for the environment. That’s the reason why we like what Amarjit wrote in the preface: “After some thought, I reluctantly accepted the invitation for I considered it a service”.
Service comes from the verb “to serve”. And the one who serves the others because of an inner vocation deserves our admiration and gratitude. This publication from Wiley collects a wide number of articles focusing on sustainability in cosmetics, 14 chapters, which represents a road map in this so sensitive issue. The authors are key experts from organizations involved in sustainability in the cosmetics industry issue with a relevant long experience.

From these pages we do understand how sustainability in cosmetics is today much more than a concept but a reality: “A number of surveys put cosmetic companies at the top of ethical corporation lists” we read. And this is important because still today in many people everything related to cosmetics, better, to the chemistry related to cosmetics has to be strictly controlled in the name of a shallow vision of these issues. So far getting the people aware, keeping the players in the chain duly informed about the progress and developments, offering  a contribution to the many companies involved in one of the most important market segments worldwide, in a word, making culture, is much more than simple information: it is a mission. In this sense this publication represents a precious support.

Author information
Amarjit Sahota is the founder and director of Organic Monitor, a specialist research, consulting & training firm that specialises on the global organic & related product industries. Organic Monitor has been actively tracking ethical and sustainable product industries since 2001.
Mr. Sahota has been involved in the health, wellness and sustainable industries for over 15 years. He has assisted a wide range of clients in realising their business potential in these industries.
Mr. Sahota has degrees in Applied Chemistry and Management Science as well as a Postgraduate Diploma in Marketing.He has co-authored a number of books on sustainability and organic products.

Amarjit Sahota (Editor)January 2014, 368 pages, hardcover. Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc.ISBN: 978-1-119-94554-3

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