Nutrients and beauty for the skin: science and regulation

corresponding

LUCA BUCCHINI*, LUCILLA CARICCHIO
*Corresponding author
Hylobates Consulting srl, Rome, Italy

Abstract

The skin depends on nutrition for health and appearance. Deficiencies readily impact the skin and its annexes, resulting in mild to even severe signs, which range from scaling, less efficient barrier, hypopigmentation, hair loss, and infections. Some nutrients such as vitamins and minerals, but also other substances with physiological effect like collagen, essential fatty acids or polyphenols are showing positive effects on skin appearance. The current EU regulatory framework in some cases allows such positive effects of nutrients to be communicated to consumers through authorized health claims whose substantiation has already been assessed by EFSA and through on hold claims or beauty claims to be fully demonstrated.


THE DIET AND THE SKIN
With adequate nutrition, the physiological functions of both the dermis and epidermis are well maintained, leading to an aesthetically pleasant skin. On the contrary, when nutrition is not adequate, effects on the skin are readily apparent, with a less pleasant appearance. For instance, it has been demonstrated that a lack of essential fatty acids (EFA) increases epidermal permeability and trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) (1), thus making the skin look also less hydrated and radiant. Indeed, nutritional deficiency and specific nutrient inadequacy (or excess) can all negatively affect the skin and thus beauty. In fact, several vitamins, minerals, and fatty acid deficiencies cause obvious cutaneous symptoms, and some deficiencies may also be secondary to skin disease or stress. For example, it is well known that skin inflammation increases the need for particular nutrients like protein and folic acid. The skin depends on nutrition.
In order to achieve beauty objectives, it is thus important to meet nutrient requirements. Moreover, in some cases, research is investigating whether intake above requirements, or of nutrients or sub ...