Field Notes from the 72nd Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology
By Howard Epstein, Philadelphia, PA.
Over 19,000 professionals interested in dermatology and the care of skin attended the 72nd annual meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology in Denver, Colorado, USA. The theme of the meeting was “new scientific heights” as evidenced by the topics presented throughout the five days of the meeting. A full day session was dedicated to cutting-edge research. The numerous presentations with a focus on the topic of genomics indicates that this field or research is playing a much larger role in medical treating including skin disorders including aging, dyspigmentation, acne and skin cancer. The presentations gave the impression that we are well on the road to developing personalized skin care based on individual biological differences that were unknown previously. As an example, Dr. David C. Page, a physician and director of the Whitehead Institute for Biomedical Research, professor of biology at Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), and Howard Hughes Medical Institute Investigator, Massachusetts, USA gave a presentation entitled “Rethinking the Pristine X and Rotting Y Chromosomes.” Previous research indicated that the human male chromosome was headed for extinction because over the past 300 million years the Y chromosome has lost hundreds of genes. At the same time, the human female X chromosome has not been losing chromosomes. At one time the X and the Y chromosome were of equal size. Today the Y chromosome is considerably smaller compared to the X chromosome. The theory suggests that eventually males will die out leaving only women as survivors within the next 150,000 years. Dr. Page’s lab has new data to show that the Y chromosome is not shrinking, it has stabilized. A more important point is the appreciation of gender related differences in skin disease. Certain diseases are more severe in either men or women. The answer to this question may well be found hidden in the Y and X chromosomes of men and women.
OF SPECIFIC INTEREST TO THE COSMETIC CHEMIST
Dr. Zoe Draelos, Department of Dermatology, Duke University School of Medicine, North Carolina, and USA chaired a session entitled “What’s New in Cosmetics 2014?” Glycobiology is a term initially used in the late 1980’s to describe an emerging field of science that combined study of carbohydrate chemistry and biochemistry and cellular and molecular biology. Dr. Draelos explained that glycans are important for cellular communication in skin. Glycans are composed of carbohydrates; they are used for energy storage in the cytoplasm of the cell. They can enhance skin hydration by activating cell membrane receptors. An example of an important glycan in skin is glycosaminoglycan(s), including chrondroitin and hyaluronan. Various glycans can interact with proteins in skin associated with skin aging. There is a theory that loss of glycans may lead to aging and a poor physical appearance of skin. Dr Draelos noted that the first glycan cream for cosmetics was introduced into the marketplace in 2011. Other new technologies introduced into the market include plant stem cell creams. The creams do not contain the stem cells; rather the stem cells are used as bioreactors to produce botanical extracts of high purity. Other materials mentioned in the presentation included ellagic acid, a natural phenolic antioxidant found in fruits including blackberries, cranberries, raspberries and strawberries. It has anti inflammatory properties. Hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid (HPA) is used in skin lightening products. The penetration of the material is enhanced when formulated with salicylic acid. Dr. Draelos mentioned that there was a study using a blend of ellagic acid HPA and salicylic acid that improved skin tone, spot intensity and overall skin pigmentation with very good results compared to Retinoic acid and hydroquinone. Another new material is lignin peroxidase (LP). LP is an enzyme derived from the tree fungus Phanerochaete chrysosporium.
It breaks down walls in decaying plant material. LP requires the presence of veratryl alcohol and a pH lower than 4.5. When the pH of skin increases, to about 5.5 the enzymatic activity stops. A clinical study of 60women with skin dyspigmentation, moderate melasma was evaluated. LP was found to be more effective than a 4% hydroquinone cream also used in the study.
GOING TO THE NEXT LEVEL OF SKIN CARE
In the new era of epigenetics we are beginning to understand how the environment and our lifestyle impact our health and appearance. Epigenetic techniques are used to measure the influence of environment and lifestyle on the individual’s gene expression. Reactive oxygen species, air pollution, specifically ambient nanoparticles, the byproduct created by combustion are highly reactive because of their small size and large surface area per unit mass. They carry organic chemicals that can localize in the mitochondria of the cell where they generate reactive oxygen species. Another source of facial dyspigmentation is soot found in the environment. Polycyclic aryl hydrocarbons bound to soot in the environment was found to be associated with an increase in pigmented spots on the face and cheeks. Other studies have indicated that increased stress has a toll on the telomeres of the cells of the body promoting faster aging. To help counter these environmental effects, nutraceuticals were discussed as a potential age-fighting strategy. Examples discussed included vitamin A in carotenoids, topical retinol, vitamin B as in niacinamide, vitamins C, D, E, F, linolenic acid (for omega-3). It was suggested that these nutrients provide antiaging benefits through epigenetic effects.
Formulators of cosmetic products have a bright and exciting future to look forward to. Science is rapidly advancing our understanding of the complex biological pathways. In this regard we are entering a new frontier of skin and hair care.
IN-COSMETICS ASIA 2014: MORE INSIGHT AND INNOVATION THAN EVER BEFORE
The personal care ingredient industry’s only pan-Asian exhibition, in-cosmetics Asia, returns to Bangkok from the 4-6 November, putting the latest innovations under the spotlight, alongside a host of new content providing exceptional insight into the latest trends, regulatory issues and market developments.
Asia-Pacific is one of the fastest growing cosmetic products markets in the world, with growth and technological progress driven by the demand for colour cosmetics, haircare and most crucially skincare products, all of which will lead to the region accounting for 28% of the global cosmetics and toiletries market by the end of 2014.
This year’s exhibition will feature more than 400 exhibitors providing visitors with a chance to have face-to-face business discussions with global manufacturers about the latest ingredients and technological advances.
Sarah Gibson, Exhibition Director, in-cosmetics Asia said: “The new content on offer at this year’s show has been put together in response to extensive research and feedback from visitors who want practical training from industry leaders which will enable them create new products.”
A new Japan Country Focus offers visitors an extensive understanding of this fast-paced, brand driven market. Featuring the new Japanese Pavilion housing exhibitors from the country, Marketing Trends Presentations exploring the region’s most up-and-coming brands and consumer insights, and a Japanese Product Trail showcasing ingredients and projects that draw inspiration from this unique market, the Japan Country Focus will celebrate the best the land of the rising sun has to offer.
in-cosmetics Asia is not just a place to discover new ingredients, but also learn from industry experts in the free Educational Programme. Marketing Trends Presentations offer insight into both the latest and most significant topics affecting the region such as the regional economic integration of the ASEAN Economic Community in 2015, skin-whitening, and haircare, as well as market developments in Japan, Thailand and Vietnam. Meanwhile the Innovation Zone and Innovation Seminars will offer up the latest in ingredients, raw materials and technology, all key to driving product development. Two full sessions will be dedicated to the complex issue of regulation. Regulatory Presentations cover topics including Regulations in the West and Regulations in Asia, specifically ASEAN Harmonisation; helping visitors get to grips with legislation in different markets.
Co-located with in-cosmetics Asia 2014 is COSMEX, an international exhibition on cosmetics manufacturing, packaging, and labelling technologies and OEM/ODM services featuring thousands of cosmetics and personal care manufacturers, brand owners, importers, exporters, and suppliers from across ASEAN. Perfect for SMEs, its co-location with in-cosmetics Asia 2014 means that visitors are able to source everything required to successfully launch and develop a cosmetics product, from the raw ingredients right through to packaging.
11TH INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY - SEPTEMBER 26-28, 2014, BEIJING
Under the Auspices of the International Society of Cosmetic Dermatology
Organized by the Chinese Society of Dermatology and the Chinese Medical Association
Co-organized by the Peking University People's Hospital and the No.1 Hospital of China Medical University
The 11th International Congress of International Society of Cosmetic Dermatology will be held in Beijing China from September 26 to 28, 2014.
Many famous professors will attend this meeting and will give lectures, among whom are Prof. Pierfrancesco Morganti, Prof. Henry W. Lim, Prof. Philippe G. Hembert, Prof. George Cotsarelis, Prof. Sewon Kang. The new concept and new technology in cosmetic dermatology will be the hot topics. These include advances in laser treatment, use of retinoic acid, skin rejuvenation, creotoxin, filler, beauty from inside out, progress in dermatologic surgery; photoprotection, dialogue between the east and the west on antioxidant usage, skin imaging and skin bioengineering, effects of traditional Chinese medicine, complications and pitfalls in cosmetic dermatology, cosmetic procedures (with live demo); active ingredients in cosmetics. We believe that all these topics will make this congress of high academic level and of great success.
ISCD, focusing on the international frontiers and hot spots of cosmetic disorders, will deliver to you in-depth understanding of the frontier theories and techniques in this field.
Presidents Jian-Zhong Zhang, MD. and Xing-Hua Gao, MD, Ph.D.: “ This congress will also provide a opportunity for participants to meet old friends and making new friends. Beijing is a modern and beautiful city with over 3000 years’ history. We sincerely hope that you will enjoy the meeting and Beijing as well. Welcome to Beijing!”
MAKING COSMETICS & FORMULATING COSMETICS
Centro Congressi Milanofiori, Assago (MI), Italy
25-26 November 2014
Making Cosmetics is all about sourcing, formulating, manufacturing and outsourcing personal care products. The only event which recognises the importance of keeping up to date with developments relating to making personal care products – a complex and demanding process that takes products from bench to consumers.
Concept to Consumer
Featuring a seminar programme presented by leading authorities with many year’s experience in taking personal care products from concept to consumer.
Conference topics are: Branding and Marketing your product, Developments in Cosmetic Technology, EU Cosmetic Regulation, Compliance, Laboratory Equipment, Testing, Production, Scale-up, Ingredients Applications, Risk Assessment / HACCP and Packaging.
Formulating Cosmetics, along with Making Cosmetics, represents a unique opportunity to update knowledge and information "up-to-the-minute"; direct contact with leading experts from across the innovation chain and supply, including more University involved in cosmetic research, is a unique opportunity for those who want to optimize the process of evolution from idea to product consumption "Personal Care", with a particular glance to the sustainability of products and to move towards the concepts of Expo 2015.
After the huge success of the 2013 we are excited to share our new programme. With ever increasing content and floor space – for more information: www.making-cosmetics.it